a good run of swell to go with the hot weather (but no banks in Perth) so i did the dawn patrol
4am out of town to beat the heat + crowds
too busy......the outer reefs were really good too but with so many shark attacks and sightings this summer
i gave the long paddle a miss.
When you came in the swell dropped badly as the tide dropped. Best half hour of waves I've had for a long time though.
ReplyDeleteyep back beach is a funny place, the pics dont show what it was like, i was too impatient to wait for a set to take a pic of....some waves were pretty heavy across the inside, normally it wants a high tide but has been the opposite for a few weeks now (trigg pt was only knee to waist high today)..
ReplyDeleteHi Lads,
ReplyDeletelooks okay to me just returned from the shaky isles (NZ) and yes we had a few tremors very unsettling! scored some isolated waves near christchurch will post photos soon was not real keen with the seal colony close by but didn't see any large fins!
cheers
Al
keen to see the pics Al. what is the water temp over there this time of year? looks like great beachies to the north and crazy terrain to the south....glaciers.? ice...ahhhh
ReplyDeletehi Bean
Deleteyes took a 5mm steamer but with wetsuits that shrink over the years (ha Ha!) ended up surfing boardies with a 2mm vest the longest surf I had was 1hr 20mins as I was getting a bit cold! the beach breaks are very odinary to the north of christchurch until you hit Kaikoura area where the is a great right hand setup and is very good on the day the beachie we were surfing is out on Banks peninsula and is the only bay exposed to both east and south swell to the south theres not much till basicaly Dunedin area the coast south of that would be pretty cold and changeable weather patterns
cheers
Al